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SOFT PLUS THE USE OF THE MICROCAMERA WITH SOFT PLUS Callegari SpA April 2009, version 1.2 SOFT PLUS 2009 Introduction The Soft Plus is a complete diagnostic instrument which exclusively combines measurement through probes with visual analysis through the Micro-camera to provide the most complete assessment of the skin, hair and cellulite. The Micro-camera enables advanced live imaging of specific skin conditions to support targeted treatment and product advice which effectively meets the client’s needs. Visualisation of skin condition improves clients understanding of their skin health and offers a powerful means to demonstrate the benefits of professional skin care over time. The Micro-camera is fully portable and easy to use, offering a wide application across the aesthetic, dermatology, and trichology fields. Simply place the camera onto the area required and the magnified image appears on the screen. The system can then provide a detailed analysis of the image which can be captured and stored in the inbuilt client database. The Micro-camera uses two lenses to provide magnification in the range of 10 to 400x and includes specific spacers for the analysis of different areas of the body. The use of polarised lens allows the analysis under the external layer of the skin to visualise the accumulation of melanin and the presence of capillaries, a clear sign of a sensitive skin, otherwise invisible with the naked eye. The Skin The skin is the largest organ of the body, made up of several different components, including water, protein, lipids, and different minerals and chemicals. Its job is crucial: to protect us from infections and other environmental assaults. The skin also contains nerves that sense cold, heat, pain, pressure, and touch. Skin is constantly changing throughout your life. In fact, the skin renews itself approximately once a month. For this reason the choice of the proper skin care is essential to maintain the health and vitality of this protective organ. The Soft Plus combined with the Micro-camera is the ideal instrument for this purpose: enabling you and your clients to choose the best products. Skin Composition The skin is made up of layers. It consists of a thin outer layer (epidermis), a thicker middle layer (dermis), and the inner layer (subcutaneous tissue or hypodermis) 2 SOFT PLUS 2009 The epidermis: The Outer Layer of Skin The outer layer of skin, the epidermis, is a translucent layer made up of cells that function to protect us from the environment. The most superficial portion contains dead skin cells that are continually shed. The deepest portion contains basal cells that are responsible for skin renewal. Keratin, a protein made within the cells of the epidermis, protects the skin from harmful substances, such as chemical products and bacteria. The epidermis also contains cells that produce melanin, which gives skin its colour. The epidermis is responsible for the look and health of the skin and it holds a large amount of water. The younger the body, the more water there is in the skin. The capacity of the skin to retain water decreases with age, making the skin more vulnerable to dehydration and wrinkles. Dermis: The Middle Layer The dermis contains two types of fibres that lessen in supply with age: elastin, which gives skin its elasticity, and collagen, which provides strength. The dermis also contains blood and lymph vessels, hair follicles, sweat glands, and the sebaceous glands, which produce oil. Nerves in the dermis sense touch and pain. Hypodermis: The Fatty Layer The subcutaneous tissue, or hypodermis, is mostly made up of fat. It lies between the dermis and muscles or bones and contains blood vessels that expand and contract to help keep your body at a constant temperature. The hypodermis also protects your vital inner organs. Reduction of tissue in this layer is what causes your skin to sag. Sebaceous Glands and Sweat Glands The sebaceous glands secrete sebum, an oily substance that helps keep skin from drying out. Sebum reduces water loss from the skin surface, protects the skin from infection by bacteria and fungi. Most of these glands are attached to hair follicles. When your body gets hot or is under stress, sweat glands produce sweat, which evaporates to cool you. Sweat glands are located all over the body but are especially abundant in your palms, soles, forehead, and underarms. 3 SOFT PLUS 2009 What can we see with the Micro-camera of the Soft Plus? Skin surface (keratin) Wrinkles, pores, black heads Microcirculation/ non homogeneous pigmentation Sebaceous alterations (oily skin, dry skin, impure skin) Scalp and hair conditions An operator who has a minimum knowledge of the skin and the hair and the problems associated with them can use the micro-camera independently from the combined programs, to support the consultation and offer personalized advice. The components to be used with the Micro-camera PART Lens X100 Lens X400 4 LENS CAP APPLICATION X12 Vertical Illumination (partial. contact) Measurement of wrinkles X14 Vertical Illumination (contact type) Pigmentation measurement X40 Side illumination (contact type) X50 Polarizing (contact type) X100 Side illumination (contact type) X400 Side illumination (contact type) Keratin measurement, dandruff and hair density Micro-circulation Measurement of pore diameter Measurement diameter of hair shaft SOFT PLUS 2009 Some examples of images taken with the Micro-camera Keratin The corneocytes, deprived of water, refract the light. With the Microcamera and the Soft Plus it is possible to determine the level of keratin on the skin by measuring the intensity of the white colour of the captured image. Normal Skin Dehydrated Skin Flakey Skin The results obtained by the elaboration of the Soft Plus are expressed as a percentage of keratin present on the skin. As shown in the pictures above, the first image represents a normal skin, in fact no white area are present; in the second and third imagines the white zones are even more present underlying a situation of dehydration and drastic dehydration, respectively. In the case of widespread presence of keratin, the advices generally given to the patients are the following: 1. use of a scrub or a delicate peeling which helps to remove the death cells from the skin; 2. use of a rich moisturizing mask after the scrub; 3. use of a rich daily moisturizing cream. Sebaceous Alterations: oily skin An enlarged picture can say a lot about the conditions of our skin. For example, an image taken with the CAP x12 and the standard lens (x100) can show in a very easy way if the skin is normal (first picture) or oily (second picture). In some cases the oily skin has a “gelatinous aspect”, like in the picture reported below: Normal Skin Oily Skin (Figure 1) 5 SOFT PLUS 2009 In other cases on an oily skin little drops of sebum are visible: (Figure 2) In the first case (Figure 1), it is generally advised the use of mat products which help to remove the excess of oil from the skin also reducing the unpleasant shiny effect. In the second case (Figure 2), specific products to clean the pores from oil, such as the use of a scrub and of purifying product is advised. Non homogeneous pigmentation Irregular or patchy discoloration of the skin can be caused either by variations in pigment density (melanin), changes in blood vessels (vascular changes), or growth of foreign organisms on the skin. Mottling or mottled skin refers specifically to vascular changes in the skin which cause a patchy appearance. The discromia of the skin can be due to different factors: Age Discontinuous and intense exposition under the sun Hormonal changes: pregnancy, hormonal therapy Situation n° 1 Lines and shapes not well-defined: generally the main cause of this situation it’s a not protected tanning. What can we do to improve this condition? 6 SOFT PLUS 2009 Use of the sun creams and of scrubs, in order to remove the death cells and increase the cells turnover are strongly advised. Also, itmay be useful to use products with whitening/brightening properties, which remove superficial and pigmented skin. Situation n° 2 Lines and shapes well-defined: the so-called “map” situation. The main cause of this situation is the hormonal changes. What can we do to improve this condition? Use of the right sun creams and use of substances that are inhibitors of tyrosinase (cogic acid, arbutine, azelaic acid, vitamin C). The understanding of the real situation for each patient is very easy thanks to the comparison between the image taken on the patient’s skin and reference pictures present into the database of the instrument. This comparison allows to clearly individuate the situation and the best treatments for each patient. Moreover, the Soft Plus performs an elaboration of the pictures taken, with the calculation of the area (expressed in mm2) for each spot present in the analyzed skin. 7 SOFT PLUS 2009 Micro-circulation The microcirculation is the blood flow through blood vessels smaller than 100 µm (i.e. arterioles, capillaries, and venules). The main functions of the microcirculation are transporting blood cells and substances to/from the tissues, and as body coolant in thermoregulation processes. It also contributes to tissues color and stiffness. 8 SOFT PLUS 2009 What can we see with the Microcamera of the Soft Plus? Situation n° 1 In the image reported above a single capillary is visible. This means that the microcirculation of the in deep tissues is not compromised. The main reason of this situation is a reduced resistance of the endothelium tissue. What can we do to improve this skin conditions? Use of substances of plant origin such as blueberry, horse chestnut, ivy…, in order to reinforce the endothelium tissue as well as products for sensitive skin. Situation n° 2 In the image reported above, a widespread network of dilated capillaries are visible, this type of skin is, generally, irritated and sensitive. Main causes: genetic and environmental factors, stress, nutrition. What can we do to improve this skin conditions? Use of delicate detergents, creams with fats similar to those of our skin (shea butter, olive oil and soy), derivatives of plant origin acting soothing (chamomile, calendula, etc). Wrinkles As a person ages the epidermal cells become thinner and less sticky. The thinner cells make the skin look noticeably thinner. The decreased stickiness of the cells decreases the 9 SOFT PLUS 2009 effectiveness of the barrier function allowing moisture to be released instead of being kept in the skin. This causes dryness. The number of epidermal cells decreases by 10% per decade and they divide more slowly as we age making the skin less able to repair itself quickly. The effects of aging on the dermal layer are significant. Not only does the dermal layer thin, but also less collagen is produced, and the elastin fibers that provide elasticity wear out. These changes in the scaffolding of the skin cause the skin to wrinkle and sag. Also, sebaceous glands get bigger but produce less sebum, and the number of sweat glands decreases. Both of these changes lead to skin dryness. The rete-ridges of the dermal-epidermal junction flatten out, making the skin more fragile and making it easier for the skin to shear. This process also decreases the amount of nutrients available to the epidermis by decreasing the surface area in contact with the dermis, also interfering with the skin's normal repair process. In the subcutaneous layer the fat cells get smaller with age. This leads to more noticeable wrinkles and sagging, as the fat cells cannot "fill in" the damage from the other layers. What can you see with the Micro-camera of the Soft Plus instrument? The use of the micro-camera allows to obtain pictures of the skin. An example is reported below: The software allows to calculates the dimensions of the each wrinkles selected on patient’s skin: 10 SOFT PLUS 2009 Moreover, the comparison between the picture taken on the patient and reference pictures present into the database of the Soft Plus allows to individuate the best treatment and advises to improve the skin conditions for each patient. For example: use formulations rich in antioxidants vitamins (C and E) that reduce the damage from free radicals and promote the synthesis of new collagen; drink a lot of water; do not smoke; adopt a diet rich in fruits and vegetables; maintain a relaxed facial expression to reduce expression wrinkles. Hair analysis A hair is a specialised outgrowth of part of the skin called the epidermis. It has two distinct parts, the hair follicle and the hair shaft. The hair follicle A hair follicle is a tiny cup-shaped pit buried deep in the fat of the scalp. The follicle is the point from which the hair grows. It is well supplied with minute blood vessels, and the blood passing through them nourishes the growing region. The temperature around the follicle is normal body temperature, and is not affected by cold or hot weather. 11 SOFT PLUS 2009 The hair shaft This is the part of the hair that can be seen above the scalp. It consists mainly of dead cells that have turned into keratins and binding material, together with small amounts of water. Terminal hairs on the head are lubricated by a natural oil (sebum) produced by the sebaceous glands of the follicles. How much natural oil your glands produce is mostly determined by your genetic inheritance. But in addition boys' and girls' glands tend to produce more oil when levels of their hormones (androgens) are high. In many teenagers, a massive surge in hormone levels leads to raised grease production. This results in a tendency to greasy hair, which many young people know all too well. The good news is that most of them outgrow it! Structure of the hair shaft Your smooth, glossy hairs have a more complicated structure than you might think. Each one can be compared to a tree: all its moisture lies in its centre, behind a tough outer layer of protective bark. If the 'bark' of the hair is well looked after the whole hair remains in good condition. If the 'bark' is stripped off to expose the centre the hair may break. The centre part of the hair, called the cortex, makes up most of the hair shaft. It is the cortex that gives hair its special qualities such as elasticity and curl. The cortex is packed with strands of keratin, lying along the length of the hair. These keratin fibres are made of the lowsulphur keratins, and are compressed into bundles of larger fibres. These are held together by a mass of sulphur-rich keratins, the matrix. The fibre-matrix combination is extremely strong and resists stretching and other strains such as twisting, much as does the glass fibre-resin mixture from which many boats are built. The cortex also contains granules of the hair pigment melanin, produced when the hair was growing in its follicle. The granules are of two types: smooth, dark granules which tend to be regularly positioned within the cortex, and lighter granules that are more irregular in shape and which are scattered randomly through the cortex. A hair may contain just one type of granule or a mixture. 12 SOFT PLUS 2009 In some of the terminal hairs, especially grey (unpigmented) ones, the cortex has a central hollow core, the medulla. There are medullae in the hairs of many animals, and they play a part in the regulation of body temperature. It may be that the presence of this air space in some human hairs is an evolutionary 'throw-back' to a time when our ancestors needed extra heat insulation. The outer layer of the hair (the 'bark') is called the cuticle. It is made up of between six and ten overlapping layers of long cells. Each of these cells or scales is about 0.3 micrometres thick and around 100 micrometres long, and about 10 micrometres across. Hair density Hair density is the amount of hair strands on the head. Generally, it is measured by counting the number of hair strands found in one square inch (2.5cm) of scalp. The average head has approximately 2.200 strands of hair per square inch, and a total of approximately 100.000 hairs. The numbers of hair in human beings does not increase after birth. It has been found that the number of hairs on the heads of women depends on the colour as follows: Blonde: 140.000 Brunette: 109.000 Black: 102.00 Red: 88.000 The amount of hair depends also on the race, as shown in the table below: Follicular Unit Density (mm2) 1.0 (CAUCASIAN) 1.0 (ASIAN) Average Hair Density (hairs/mm2) 2.1 (CAUCASIAN) 1.7 (ASIAN) The reference ranges used in the Soft Plus considering the picture taken by the Microcamera and the area then analyzed by the dedicated software, are reported below: Very low density: up to 5 hairs; Low density: 6 to 9 hairs; Normal density: 10 to 15 hairs; High density: ≥ 16 hairs. 13 SOFT PLUS 2009 The Microcamera of the Soft Plus is able to measure accurately the hair density simply by taking a picture of the scalp: then the operator can easily select the bulb of each hair with the supplied pen: automatically the software will calculate and evaluate the hair density. The Microcamera can be used also to evaluate the seriousness of the hair lost in some patients. The growth of new hair, that it is not visible with the naked eyes, is a clear sign that the situation is not dangerous or unsolvable and that the treatments are giving the desired positive effects. Diameter of the hair The diameter of a human hair does not have a standard value since different people have different hair structures. Your genetic makeup can cause the width of your hair to differ from that of other people. Hair colour is also a big factor. Black hair is thicker than is red hair. The weather can also affect the diameter of a hair strand. As the weather gets warmer, the diameter of body hair increases. Age is another factor. Babies and young children have finer hair than adults. As a person grows up, their hair becomes thicker and stronger. Another factor is that, the closer to the root of the hair, the thicker a strand of hair would be. The Micro-camera, thanks to the software developed for the Soft Plus, gives a precise value of diameter of the hair, so allowing to choose the best product for different type of hair. The diameter is automatically calculated by the software simply by taking a picture of the hair shaft and selecting the ray of the shaft. 14 MICRO-MEDICAL Instrumente GmbH Falkensteiner Straße 4 D-61462 Königstein / Ts. T.: +49 (0) 61 74/29 96-0 F.: +49 (0) 61 74/2 32 03 eMail: info@micromedical.de www.micromedical.de